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"Dis-moi ce que tu manges, je te dirai ce que tu es"
A. Brillat-Savarin, 1755-1826
REVIEWER: Robert Cardarelli
RESTAURANT: Felix's Restaurant and Oyster Bar, 739
Iberville Road, New Orleans
WHEN: December 2000
My friends and I decided to
spend a weekend in New Orleans.
We woke up one beautiful morning
with a strong case of "complete starvation" (a night of extensive
drinking and partying tends to do that). Being out-of-towners, we
wanted to try some of the fine Cajun cuisine that everyone is always
talking about. So, we all decided to head straight out for Bourbon
Street (we were only there a couple of hours ago living up the Mardi
Gras traditions) with the hopes of finding the perfect place to
eat - the most food you can get for the cheapest price. We helplessly
searched and searched and yet found nothing appealing. Everything
was either closed or way too expensive, except for a place called
Felix's Restaurant and Oyster Bar.
Actually,
we previously walked past this restaurant and hoped that we would
never in our lifetime wind up in there. We were running out of alternatives
and we were four hungry, hung-over men!
So
we bravely entered..
Luckily,
we found a table right away (trust me, it wasn't that hard).
Let me also mention that the table was filthy, but it was the cleanest
one we could find. The second we sat at the table, we were presented
the menus and a basket of bread. As starved as we were, we dug into
the breadbasket and realized that we had just made one of the biggest
mistakes of our lives. It couldn't have been bread; it looked
like bread, it smelled like bread, BUT it tasted like rock.
Seriously, I think one of my companions chipped a tooth. Thank God
there were some crackers (pre-wrapped) for us to devour.
A
half hour went by, and so did the waitress. That is, she past our
table about 20 times without even acknowledging us. Finally
we caught her attention!!! "STOP!!! We are not invisible", screamed
one of the guys.
So
she approached us.
Before
we even had the chance to say a single word, she yelled at us, "We
got specials". All right, so what are they. "Y'all going to get
the sampler, its good and the cook's been working on it all morn-in".
We thought to ourselves, "wait a minute, is she ordering
for us"! Since it was already 11:00am and the cook must have been
working on it for 5 hours - it must be decent. Additionally, we
were petrified to instruct the waitress to give us a couple more
minutes, since it may take another half hour and then breakfast
will become lunch.
We
hastily started to make our orders.
"We
would like to start with the garlic bread", said one of us. The
waitress replied, "why y'all want the garlic bread, there is already
bread on the table. I think you should just eat that bread".
I think she was referring to those bread-like chunks of granite
on the table. Then, my friend ordered the lemonade and the waitress
replied, "Are you sure you want that?" My friend asked "What
do you mean?" and received this answer: "Well, I have been working
here for about 10 years and I have never served that before."
NOW
WE ARE STARTING TO GET SCARED.
Afraid
to say anything else to the waitress, I took my chances and ordered
the sampler (let me say, everyone else was wise enough to order
a plain ham and cheese sandwich). I silently thought, "The sampler
is the special of the day and the cook worked on all morning - it
should be served rather quickly". Boy, was I WRONG!!! Not
one, but two hours went by before we were finally served.
Yes,
we finally got the goods!!! After all that waiting!!! Mission accomplished!!!
As
I looked at the plate presented before me, the only words that came
to mind were, "That's disgusting" (RS, 1999). I had no choice
but to eat! So daringly, I dug in for my first bite.
Since I never had Cajun food before, I had no previous warnings
to the spice intensity. My three friends examined my face as it
went from white, to red, finally to blue (use your imagination and
think of the Looney Tunes when fire came out of their mouths).
After letting out a scream, I lost a pound of sweat and tears.
Suddenly, I lost my appetite and lost my hang over.
I'M
CURED!!!
In
case you are wondering about the lemonade, it appeared to be lemon
favored Crystal Light.
Using
the Likert scale,
I award these ratings (with 1 being the worst/least and 5 is the
best/most):
|
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1
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2
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3
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4
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5
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|
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Location
|
|
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|
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X
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|
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Cleanliness
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X
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|
|
|
|
|
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Health Hazard
|
|
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|
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X
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|
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Freshness of food
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X
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|
|
|
|
|
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Service (including time
& friendliness)
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X
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|
|
|
|
|
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Price
|
|
|
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X
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|
|
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Taste
|
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X
|
|
|
|
|
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Spice intensity
|
|
|
|
|
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X
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Felix's has a website,
so please feel free to investigate the menu and see a few appetizing
pictures at: http://www.felixs.com/menu.htm
.

REVIEWER: Toby Tanser
WHERE: Hotel Loftleidir (Hotel Air Ways), Dinner Buffet
WHERE: Reykjavíkurflugvöllur, IS-101
WHEN: December 28, 2000 (The Icelandic Sportsperson of the Year
Review)
WHAT HE WROTE: Although this was indeed a function, the menu
remains true to each day, thus it may be useful to the traveling
clubsperson. Hotel Loftleidir is owned by IcelandAir and sits
by the old Reykjavik airport close to the city center. The buffet,
which usually costs about $40 per head, is excellent in a rich selection.
Meats and fish cover the table in a wide array of tastes.
Specialities such as Smoked Lamb and Salmon are
not to be missed. Potatoes and the traditional vegetables
were the choices as this country relies on the solid V's.
The desserts were a little on the slim pickings, as Iceland is not
reknowned for its delicate cuisine. Wine and alcoholic beverages
were extra in price, on a usual night and can hitch the price of
the meal up considerably. One starter dish I recommend skipping
is the soured herring that has an aroma of week old dish water ---
in fact the Icelanders typically down a shot of spirits before swallowing
the fish to numb the taste buds.
As a matter of interest Vala Flosadottir,
of the IR Athletics Club, won the award. She is the first
ever Icelandic woman to win an Olympic medal --- the bronze medal
in the pole vault at Sydney 2000. She also owned the indoor
world record at one time.

Vala Flosadottir (Iceland),
Stacy Dragila (USA)
Tatiana Grigorieva (Australia) |
   |
Eve Kaplan: "I like Toby's reviews because
he really talks about food." (note: ... meaning, of course,
our other food critics seem to overemphasize certain other aspects
...)
REVIEWER: Roland Soong
RESTAURANT: Westside Cottage II, 689 9th Avenue (Between
47th and 48th), New York, NY
WHEN: January 2, 2001
WHAT HE WROTE: On the day after New Year's Day, some strange
delivery person walked through the office, saying "Happy New
Year" and leaving menus on people's desks. Needless to
say, the office staff was not amused because of the 'Tuesday' morning
blues. I was therefore delegated the task of taking this restaurant
to task. Why me? I don't know, but I am sure that they
must have some reason to be the best qualified (=the nastiest?).
Did I go to the restaurant? No. Why should I?
As I often said, I don't have to go to the restaurant to write a
review. So this is in fact a review of the menu.
- On the front panel of the menu, they cited three
sources of review and quoted from two of them. So the arithmetic
does not add up. In any case, the three sources were respectively
--- Daily News (Friday Extra), November 29, 1991; Daily
News, Sunday, September 14, 1986; The Christian Science
Monitor, Wednesday, November 9, 1983. Since only fossil
records were cited, I must infer that contemporary reviews of
this restaurant are less than glowing.
- In the 1983 review, the quote was "New York
City is overwhelming when it comes to eating out nearly 16,000
places to choose from. The best is Westside Cottage."
The first sentence is grammatically incorrect and would not have
appeared in that publication. The second sentence refers
to a different restaurant since the one listed on the menu has
the 'II' suffix.
- Under dumplings, you can have half a dozen of
dumpings (vegetable, shrimp, chicken, pork; fried or steamed)
for the same price of $3.95. But if you want six of any
two kinds of dumplings, you have to pay $4.25. What was
that extra 30 cents for?
- Here are some translation mistakes that I found
without really looking for them (yes, this reviewer is a Federal
Southern District of New York/Eastern District of New York/District
of New Jersey/District of Pennsylvania court-qualified expert
witness in Chinese language (including the Mandarin, Cantonese
and Shanghainese dialects)):
- Lo Mein is tagged with "Spaghetti" in English
and "egg noodles" in Chinese. With due respect,
spaghetti is not quite egg noodles.
- Beancurd with Mushrroms (sp) (note: that is not
a Chinese pronunciaton in spite of what you may have heard in
those Charlie Chan movies)
- Steamed Fish in Ginger Sauce is "Steamed Whole
Fish in Ginger Sauce" in Chinese, so all non-Chinese-reading
diners may be shortchanged of certain fish body parts
- Fresh Squid dishes in Chinese have the word 'fresh'
carefully excised even though it was printed that 'under no circumstances
does the chef permit the use of any canned, pre-processed or frozen
foods'
- On the subject of canned foods, there is no way in the world
that anyone can get fresh lichees for the Lichees Chicken
at this time of the year. This has to be false advertising.
- The prawn dishes are actually of two types in Chinese --- whole
prawns and chopped prawn balls --- but they are just called prawns
in English
- In one place, it reads Subgum Pan Fried Noodles as if
anyone would know what Subgum means in English, but elsewhere
they did not say Subgum Sliced Chicken but used Sliced
Chicken with Assorted Vegetable (sic) instead. Obviously,
a single vegetable cannot be assorted.
Eve Kaplan said, "How could you pan
my favorite Chinese restaurant chain?" Well, Eve, you
can always tell us what you like about them ...
REVIEWER: Ross
Galitsky
WHEN: December 16, 2000
WHAT: Cream puffs served at the 28th Annual Club Awards Party
WHAT HE SAID: "Those cream puffs are so GOOOOOD!
I can put twenty at a time in a mouth and they'll just go dooooown
..."
REVIEWER: Roland Soong
WHEN: December 4, 2000
RESTAURANT: Viva Pancho, 156 West 44th Street, New York City,
NY
WHAT HE WROTE: Oh, yeah, two more new employees joining the
staff and it's time for us to sample (and destroy) yet another dining
establishment this time. Before leaving, we searched for the
restaurant on Google.com, and found only restaurant directories.
Therefore, we can expect this review to appear high on the listing
for future searchers, based upon the importance of this website.
So we march down West 44th Street, all ten of us, like Pershing's
expeditionary force to sow woe and destruction.
By this time in my erstwhile career, I did not expect
to do any more restaurant reviews myself. I think of my job
as simply one to cajole others to do the dirty work. Having
shown them how low the bar can be set, I merely expected the others
to be able to go lower. Unfortunately, I am sad to say that
I was unable to get anyone interested in writing this review because
no one seemed to feel strongly enough. Besides, several of
them already owe me a lot of reviews about certain other establishments
that had grievously offended them.
My review consists of a number of key observations:
- While our party sampled many different items
on the menu (tamales, enchiladas, fajitas,
etc.), no one had anything terribly good to say. So it would
be fair to say that the offering was not particularly challenging
or exciting. The general stupor could not be attributed
to intoxication, as no one had anything stronger than watered-down
coke. (Addendum: Our Argentinian critic says, "Wait
a minute! You didn't ask me for feedback! I ordered
the guacamole and it was disgusting. And I love guacamole."
Another party member said, "Yes, I second that. According
to the menu, my order included guacamole. It was not there
when my food was brought out, and I had to ask the waitress for
it. After tasting it, I understood why she had not brought
it out at first --- she did not want to see me retch!")
- Our junior vegetarian scanned the menu and saw
that everything was either beef or chicken, and so had to ask
the waitress for recommendations on vegetarian fare. She
said, "You can order anything on the menu, and I'll just
tell the kitchen to hold the meat." She was in fact
wrong, on account of the next item.
- Of course, everyone was always interested in
what I would be ordering. I said, "Pancho's Cheeseburger,
of course. You know that I would sacrifice a lot to come
up with a restaurant review. How could I not review something
as obvious as Pancho's Cheeseburger?" As it turned
out, I was deeply disappointed. It was a regular-looking
cheese burger --- charred minced beef on a sesame-seeded toasted
bun. I failed to see what Pancho had to do with this.
And cheese in a bun would not have been much of a meal without
the beef! Oh, not to forget, the most interesting twist
about Pancho's Cheeseburger is that the french fries were substituted
by rice and beans. This is not something that you will see
at McDonald's anytime soon.
- In retrospect, the best part of the whole course
was the nacho chips beforehand (the left hand side of the table
went through two helpings in five minutes), though everybody wished
the sauce had been hotter.
- The boss (that is, the person paying the bill)
had the final say: "There are too many mirrors in this place!
I don't like mirrors in a restaurant. Only vain people like
to have mirrors so as to admire themselves." So that
was yet another twist of the knife.
Who is Pancho? This is probably a reference
to Pancho Villa. This particular restaurant is probably
not a good place to learn about that Pancho. I would recommend
The
Life and Times of Pancho Villa by Friedrich Katz,
a 985-page tome that is sure to impress anyone that you want to
pick up at Starbucks.
REVIEWER: Toby Tanser
WHEN: November 22, 2000
RESTAURANT: Coogan's
Restaurant, 4015 Broadway (169th Street), New York City,
NY
WHAT HE WROTE: Je suis mais un bagel simple mon bon monsieur.
Cependant la pensée de I à manger, ou à ne pas manger, était d'être.
Well, with all that said and done, there may be other substances
as there are venues. With the coming of winter, and the blowing
of the north wind, I discovered myself in Coogan's Bar on Broadway.
It is most conveniently situated behind the Armory.
Entering the establishment one quickly gets the
picture (hic - I was going to say insider ...) of what this eatery
is about. We were quickly seated and attended to by a nice attractive
waitress (well these things help with the review). The menu seemed
a touch bland though typical for a sports bar-plus-diner and the
prices looked very reasonable. I had the Santa Fe burger and
the Captain Jack's burger (well, I was reviewing).
The quality of the meat was good, the cheese was
ok and the trimmings just fine. The dessert was something with ice
cream and fudge brownies coated in cream and chocolate sauce, a
smudge on the small size. Not forgetting the drinks, we drank
the house beer which although a tad flat, was pleasant but not a
stellar Artois. The value for money was good, the only wince was
that kareoke night is on Tuesdays. Whilst we were treated
to some excellent vocals, I did notice my cream turning into guacamole
as a few locals took to the stage.
My inquiries led me to find out that the Central
Park Track Club does not have a routine of visiting this bar for
post-training chomping and natter. More's the pity, but apparently
Warren Street are regulars and report that the host is often more
than generous in bringing over a free pitcher or two... I am liking
this place more and more! If one becomes bored with the table company,
the back room is adorned with pictures from the 5-km
race the bar sponsors in the spring. Tobyrating 7.5/10,
and (before I shut up) that score will go up if any of those pitchers
come my way.
COMMENT #1: Here is a hint ---
if you mentioned to the owner that you were sent by Ellen Wallop
(one of the legendary Central Park Track Club multi-sports endurance
athletes), you would have gotten a couple more free pitchers ...
COMMENT #2: Du får ingen bagel när
du är så dum.
HISTORICAL NOTE: Toby is evidently
not completely and totally familiar with the Central Park Track
Club legends. As our loyal readers such as Audrey Kingsley
and Eve Kaplan would have been able to tell you immediately,
there is a reason why some of us cannot go to Coogan's (see Famous
Saying #754). By the way, you will find it truly frightening
if you learn that when we typed in "Coogan's Restaurant"
and "New York City" into the Google search engine, that
particular famous saying appeared as the fifth highest ranked result.
Just give it a month for Google to index us and this particular
review will show up too. Yes, we promised you that we would
be a superpower ...
REVIEWER: Roland Soong
WHEN: November 14, 2000
RESTAURANT: Mom's Bagels, 15 West 45th Street, New
York, NY
WHAT HE WROTE: "On this rainy day, the group set out
ostensibly to the Alpine Deli. Once we got near the place,
we collectively lacked the courage to enter. There were several
reasons --- someone's stomach simply revolted at the thought, someone
else was terrified of that crazy-looking guy behind the sandwich
counter, etc. In any case, we swung across the street to
Mom's Bagels instead. This reviewer had a piece of chocolate
cake and a can of coke, so there was nothing to write home about,
one way or the other. However, we observed that two of the
members of the party ordered the tuna melt on bagel. When
they each chewed into their food, they both yelled. One said,
'It must be 400 degrees hot!' So watch out if you ever come
down here and order the tuna melt! This has been a public
service announcement from your favorite website."
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REVIEWER: Marc van Lohuizen
ESTABLISHMENT: Bouchon Bistro & Wine Bar, 41 Greenwich
Avenue (between Charles Street and Perry Street), New York
City
WHEN: October 31, 2000 (Halloween)
WHAT HE WROTE:
"On the day of the year when tricks and treats are
exchanged, nightmares can come true, and things are not as
they appear, I was tricked by my party into an odd
overpriced French bistro. We sat in the back section
(which may or may not have been a gazebo, although we couldn't
be sure) at a table with a tacky plastic umbrella overhead.
Due to the arrangement of the tables, which were deadbolted
to the floor, I was unable to move or breathe in the small
space that the table cramped against the wall allowed me.
Latin music was playing the entire time we were there
(this was a French restaurant, if you recall), and there was
a lone medium- sized disco ball in the center of the room,
nearly concealed by a score of other tacky umbrellas that
covered all the tables in the back, almost as if to obscure
or hide this embarrassment from the past (DISCO IS DEAD).
After waiting for
what must have been nearly half an hour for our Halloween
treats, a poorly clad waiter shambled his way towards our
table. If the old adage is true, and the quality of
a thing is directly proportional to the time required to produce
it, our dinner must have been truly magnificent indeed.
I can only think to blame my own lack of taste for not perceiving
it in this manner, as doubtless any connoisseur of fine French
cuisine would have (although such people seemed paradoxically
absent from the establishment).
The only things that were on the menu were meat dishes (I
was REALLY fortunate to be the vegetarian of the group), but
from what I gathered from the looks of displeasure on my companions'
faces, these dishes were poorly prepared. I was able
to find one appetizer that did not contain meat, which was
essentially a platter (named very inventively "The Cheese
Platter") of a very few types of cheese, all of which
tasted like they had been aged... and all too well, if you
know what I mean. The bistro is generous enough to provide
slices of bread with this cheese, but as I was not in the
mood for what can only have been a selectively French delicacy
(mold cultured on store-bought Wonder bread), I went with
the standard loaves served to all patrons while they wait
(far too long) for their meals, which were surprisingly fresh
and pleasant to the palate. I will have to ask them
where they have their bread baked, as I ascertain that it
is not baked on site from my other impressions of the establishment.
Needless to say,
the only reason why we ever entered this place was to escape
the frenzied crowds of cross-dressing vampires and other creatures
(or such...) of the night gathered outside for the parade.
Dining at the Bouchon bistro seemed like a far more tolerable
fate ... further proof that things are not what they appear
to be on the 31st of October. The only thing that comes
to mind as being scarier than the quality of our dining experience
was the sight of a large fur-covered (yes, it was authentic)
gentleman attempting to portray some Baywatch heroine or lingerie
model. I have attached a photo because I am sure that
you cannot visualize this. I heartily recommend this
restaurant, both for its special brand of ambiance and for
the area in which it is situated, to anyone seeking a frightful
time on Halloween."
|
REVIEWER: Roland Soong
WHEN: October 24, 2000
RESTAURANT: Au Bon
Pain, West 44th Street between Fifth Avenue and Madison
Avenue, New York, NY
WHAT HE WROTE: "Once again, for lack of imagination,
the crew headed off to the Good Pain. The francophiles on
our club may object to this very loose translation (just remember,
La traduction est comme une femme --- lorsqu'elle est belle,
elle n'est pas fidèle; lorsqu'elle est fidèle, elle n'est pas belle),
but the fact was that our party consisted of two senior French speakers
who knew exactly what it means and one junior non-French speaker
who needed to know the truth. This is not a review about the
food (what do you expect me to say about one cup of Forest Mushroom
soup and a bread roll?). Rather, we want to inform you about
certain practices at the restaurant. Our junior member proceeded
to pick up two sugar-coated donuts and placed them in a big pizza
box. At the check out, he was asked, 'What's in there?'
'Two donuts.' And the cashier proceeded to ring up without
inspection. Lesson #1, you can stuff twenty donuts in there
next time and they would accept your parole de gentilhomme.
Next, our junior member pulled out a one hundred dollar bill, which
caused a long delay as the store manager inspected the bill in many
different ways until one of our senior members volunteered to pay
with a five dollar bill. Lesson #2, this restaurant will not
accept legal bills of large denomination. However, it makes
for a good diversion tactic away from what you have squirreled away
in that large pizza box ... This has been a public service announcement
from your favorite website."
From Toby Tanser: "I would like to add
that Au Bon Pain, despite its rather tacky decor and awful
service, does indeed have very nice apple-cinnamon bagels called
Dutch something ... they are literally painted with sugar and promote
the well-known phrase, 'One is not enough.'"
From Marc van Lohuizen: "Oh, you people
at Central Park Track Club don't know me but I am the junior member
mentioned in the above. I don't know why, but on November
6th, 2000, I went back to Au Bon Pain for more torture.
This time, I ordered a custom sandwich and they held me up for 10
minutes because they didn't know how to price it. Therefore,
lesson #3 is --- don't order a custom sandwich. P.S.
As a funny aside, someone wanted to know what the shitake
in the forest mushroom soup is and got the obvious abbreviated answer!"
REVIEWER: Marc van Lohuizen
RESTAURANT: Burger King, 273 Canal Street (corner of Cortlandt Avenue),
Chinatown, New York, NY
WHEN: October 20, 2000
WHAT HE WROTE: In celebration of my last birthday, a
close friend decided to take me out to an allegedly exclusive club
around the area of the site of what would soon become one of my
gravest regrets. Lady Luck had other plans for my companion
and I, however, as the club had not yet opened to the public for
the evening. So we decided to grab something to eat somewhere
to wait until opening time...
Burger
King.
How
I found myself in this Godforsaken place I may never truly understand.
As we entered the establishment, we immediately noted that only
one out of what must have been over twenty five tables was taken,
which seemed at the time to be a good sign that we would have the
seat of our choice to have our snack and relax a while. We
could not have been more wrong.
As
we approached the counter to order our meals, a large sign to my
left with the ominous words "No loitering. Customers
allowed only 20 minutes to eat" caught my eye. After
my friend had finished making his order, it was my turn to purchase
something very far short of anything remotely resembling "food",
"folks", or "fun". I asked for a milk
shake, which, obscenity of obscenities, was denied to me, as their
milk shake machine was allegedly out of order (my own dark suspicion
to this day is that laziness or an ignorance about how to turn the
machine on was what truly prevented my union with the desired milk
shake). So I decided to get myself an order of "Jalepeño
Poppers" and a Sprite.
Without
being asked whether we would be having our meals "to go"
or "to stay", we were given small heavily grease-stained
paper bags containing Burger King's fine brand of delicacies. This
was doubtless a portend of things to come. We sat down to
empty our bags onto poorly cleaned tables that only added to the
grease on our bags. The jalepeño poppers, when I finally mustered
up enough courage to sample one of them (this was 25% of my purchase...
99 cents for 4 poppers is a heretofore unheard of outrage), seemed
as though they had been deep-fried while in their cardboard container;
the box was covered in more cooking oils than the poppers themselves,
which were distressingly undercooked. I decided to grin
and bear it and continue to partake in the culinary travesty that
had been set before me, if only out of common courtesy to the establishment
within which I wished to pass the time.
Eighteen
minutes after we had received our meals and sat down to comfortably
attempt to enjoy what we had paid for, we were approached by a representative
of the establishment calling for our expulsion, in supposed keeping
with the '20 minute rule' imposed by the sign I'd noticed earlier.
Although we made friendly mention of the fact that we technically
had two minutes more to spend before we could be legally removed
from the premises, the representative self-importantly refused to
take 'No' for an answer, and so my companion and I both agreed that
a brawl fought over our right to two additional minutes in a Burger
King would perhaps not actually be worth it. We collected
our belongings and went on our way, both now fully aware of the
folly in our choice of fast food. Afterwards, we resolved
never to enter the unclean doors of a Burger King again. Frankly,
I suggest you do the same. This has been a public service
announcement from your favorite website.
WHAT Silvina Baldermann SAID: "¡QUE
BARBARIDAD!"
REVIEWER: Roland Soong
WHEN: October 11-13, 2000
During the stated period, I was on a business trip
to London. The following is a report of my observations, which
you will undoubtedly recognize as being very similar in style and
tone to the usual coverage of our club activities. In other
words, London may never recover from this ...
|

Ealing Common
|
I did not stay in
the city center of London. Rather, I stayed in a hotel
near the office that I was visiting because I needed to be there
every day. The place is called Ealing. Somebody
there offered this comparison, "Ealing is like Queens to
someone from New York." Queens? I wouldn't
know, because I haven't been there either in spite of my twenty
year residence in New York City. Right across my hotel
is Ealing Common, a vast expanse of green lawn. Now this
is something that is unlikely to be seen over here in New York
City, because some money-grubber would have built a big shopping
mall surrounded by a massive parking lot a long time ago.
By the way, in case you couldn't tell from
this photo, it was drizzling at the time. In fact, it
was drizzling all the time ...
|

My sweet home for 3 nights

Warning notice on bathroom wall

The choice of hot drinks
|
My hotel is the
Jarvis International, the only one in this area.
Prior to going there, many people have given me survival tips
and condolences. I knew that those were probably not idle
threats, when even the taxi dispatcher at Heathrow gave me a
knowing smirk after I told him the name of my destination.
According to the hotel brochure, "Set
in a prime position on a major gateway site yet overlooking
the green expanses of Ealing Common, the hotel is just 5 miles
from the center of London. It is a first class venue
for the business, conference and leisure guest which has benefited
from a £4.2 million investment. There are 150 newly
refurbished bedrooms and 39 new Jarvis studios. All
have ensuite facilities, trouser press, remote control satellite
television, hairdryer, direct dial telephone and a choice
of hot drinks."
First of all, no amount of refurbishment is
ever going to make a small studio get any larger. Whilst
it is true that this was at least a double bed and not a single
bed, the writing desk is so small that it can barely accommodate
a laptop computer.
If the living quarters were small, the bathroom
is even smaller. There is not even enough room for me
to attempt to take a photo. But I managed to take a
photo of the ominous warning message on the bathroom wall
(see photo on the left). I think that they are being
overcautious, because there really isn't enough room to slip
...
As for the remote control satellite television,
there were theoretically twenty-four channels but one was
a service channel, six of them were radio sound-only channels
and four of them were pay-per-view movies (my received advice
was: "Do not order any PPV movies, because you won't
receive what you ordered --- you'll only get the soft-core
porn.") What remained were the regular broadcast
channels and the Sky channels (read: Fox in the USA).
Of the television programs, I remembered watching a lot of
soccer programs from all over the world (they were desperate
enough to show the New York Metrostars versus the Chicago
Fire) and a lot of soccer commentary (this was the traumatic
week after England lost to arch-rival Germany 1-0 in the final
game played in Wembley Stadium, the trainer of the national
team Kevin Keegan resigned, and England barely escaped with
a 0-0 draw against lowly Finland in the World Cup qualifying
round, etc).
The picture on the left shows what that 'choice
of hot drinks' consisted of --- an electric kettle, two tea
cups, two tea spoons, one sauce plate, one plastic-wrapped
cookie, four small plastic containers of milk-like substance
and a selection of tea bags or instant coffee. This
was what £4.2 million bought?
What type of clientele uses this facility?
I will relate one interesting snippet that I overheard (by
accident, of course) between two male guests: "In our
company, unless you are an engineer, you are just overhead."
I'll have to remember to use that phrase sometime.
|

Close-up of the bed cover |
The bed cover were
checkers of blue and yellow colors, with fuzzy white specks
introduced into the blue. Now, this must have been the
result of careful human engineering, because it would be difficult
to tell whether a white spot (see the middle of the photo on
the left) is part of the original design or "you-know-what."
I did not conduct test for human genetic materials in this case
because I really didn't want to know.
In this same photo, I have included portions
of a map drawn by a previous guest from New York. Underneath
"Jarvis," he had written "Eat" first and
then crossed it out emphatically. To the right, the
letters "McD" denote the obviously dismal, but evidently
not as evil, alternative. With a recommendation like
this, how can I turn down my chance for a memorable food review
for the website? So on the second night, after an all-day
business meeting that left me too exhausted to want to go
out into the rain, I tried the Art Café in the hotel.
|
My informant had stayed in this hotel for three
weeks in a row, and therefore had sampled everything on the menu.
He offered some helpful hints --- "Do not try the lamb chop,
because it is just two tiny blobs of red meat. Do not try
the pork chop because it is undercooked." So I read through
the menu, first filtering out anything that he had warned me about
and choosing the minimum risk item from what remains. I ordered
the steak with instructions for 'medium rare' and it came back as
a piece of shoe leather! The side dish was potato dauphinoise,
and it was difficult to see how they actually managed to make the
potato so greasy. But whereas my informant said, "Do
not eat at the hotel if you don't want to get sick!", I did
not suffer any ill effects.
On the next day, I had a very British meal in a
modernized pub --- fish and chips, with Irish Stout. The only
regret was that I missed the liberal --- sorry, I mean extravagant
--- sprinkling of salt that one always got at a real fish-and-chips
shop.
On the final day before I left, I had lunch in a
Chinese restaurant in London's Chinatown. Without any guidance,
I just chose a restaurant named "Harbor City" because
its Chinese name is a well-known brand name for Peking-style restaurants
in Beijing, Hong Kong and New York City (where it is incarnated
as the well-regarded Joe's Shanghai Restaurant on West 56th
Street between Fifth and Sixth Avenues). Alas, the London
version does not match up to its namesakes. The soup was Shark
Fin Soup with Chicken; it tasted slightly of ginseng, which
is to their credit because this proved that the soup definitely
did not come straight out of a can. The entrée was Mixed Seafood
with Salt and Chili, which was totally bungled. The result
was a rather bland dish without the sharp, pungent flavor of the
spices. I give a higher score to the fish and chips the day
before. The beer was the Chinese brand Tsing Dao, which is
thoroughly German lager given another brand identity (because
the Germans brought their beer manufacturing technology to the city
of Tsing Dao in the early twentieth century when the place was a
German protectorate).
I also feel that it is no longer necessary to discuss
airline food, and I am sure that you know what I mean ... (burf!)
...
|

Wake up time!
|
The faithful reader
of this website must have followed the many failed alarm clock
jokes. While our website photographer can use this as
an excuse for not covering the races, I don't think I can use
that as an excuse for missing a business meeting. In this
case, I was reluctant to bring four alarm clocks (à la
Rob Zand) across the Atlantic with me . Well, there
was absolutely no need to fear. Every morning, around
7am, a garbage truck showed up to unload the dumpster located
right underneath my window. I even had time to take a
photo (see photo on left).
Could I have gone back to sleep again?
Not if I can hear it loud and clear every time that someone
flushes somewhere in the building ...
|
Of course, London is more than just Ealing.
But this is the section reserved for the Central Park Track Club
food critics, and so we'll have to leave the other stories for another
time and place. But there is a photo
that should interest Yves-Marc Courtines.
From Eve Kaplan: "What are you talking
about!? I once spent a whole week in Ealing and you were there
for only three days."
From Colin Frew: "Next time you are in London, give
me a call. I live in Chisiwck, which is only about 10 mins by car
from the Jarvis. It sounds like you needed rescuing, or perhaps
feeding." Who's the one who needs rescuing ...?
REVIEWER: Risa Becker
RESTAURANT: Sportsman's
Steakhouse and Lounge (just northwest of Ponca, Nebraska)
WHEN: September, 2000
WHAT SHE WROTE: I couldn't wait to visit northeast Nebraska, because
as an urban East Coaster, America's heartland always seemed exotic
to me. On my first
day, I drove for hours past farms and cornfields and I avoided heavy
food in anticipation of a fantastic steak dinner.
I was in Nebraska on business and a co-worker had recommended
Sportsman's Steakhouse and Lounge, so I looked forward to the meal.
My companion and I arrived at
the steakhouse and our waitress took our drink order and directed
us to the buffet. We found no steak. instead, only fried fish sticks and roast
chicken. Figuring the
buffet was an appetizer, we asked to see a menu.
Our waitress obliged, but cautioned that we couldn't order
from it, because it was Friday and Friday was buffet day. Sportsman's
caters to the local Catholic population who avoid meat on Fridays,
so we steak-cravers were out of luck.
Given that the nearest restaurant was 20 miles away, we swallowed
our disappointment and dug into the fishsticks.
The best part about Sportsman's (adding to the pleasure
of anticipation) was finding it.
This was no simple task.
It is located at the end of an unpaved, unmarked road, designated
by the sign "turn left for historical monument." (FYI, the Wiseman
family was massacred here by Sioux Indians during the pioneer days.)
It took some doing, but
I did find it. The restaurant
sits on the banks of the Missouri River, a stone's throw from
South Dakota. It's a lovely spot... I'd
go back, but maybe on a Monday.

Finger Lickin' Good |
RESTAURANT: Tar
Box Hollow Buffalo Ranch, Dixon, Nebraska
WHEN: September, 2000
REVIEW: I had better luck the next
day at Tar Box Buffalo Ranch.
There, we were treated to an informative tour and covered
wagon ride. We
viewed sunflowers, ten types of grasses, buffalo jerky, buffalo
soap, and, finally, the monstrous buffaloes themselves.
We were permitted to feed the buffaloes, but not to touch
them or leave the wagon, because, as our guide explained, they're
not domesticated and "they'll kill you."
The buffaloes were happy
to see the wagon and scooped up the food pellets from our
fingers with their 8-inch long, gray tongues.
It was kind of gross, because they were salivating
a lot, but I felt like we were in touch with wild animals
and that was a thrill.
Later we avenged the "finger-licking"
by enjoying a buffalo steak sandwich on a hamburger roll with
potato chips and a pop (i.e. Coke). Great
day, simple meal, and it definitely beat Sportsman's Lounge.
|
REVIEWER: Roland Soong
RESTAURANT: ESPN Zone, Times Square (42nd Street and
Broadway), New York City
WHEN: September 25th, 2000
WHAT HE WROTE: "Another corporate shindig sent me into
yet another unlikely location. Please note that they will
not take telephone reservations, so you have to show up in person
to see where you stand. When I walked in, I immediately saw
that this ESPN-branded place had television sets all over the place
tuned to different sports programs (the NBC Olympics, the MSNBC
Olympics coverage, Monday Night Football on ABC, the baseball game
on ESPN, the lumberjack championships on ESPN2, and definitely no
Fox Sports programs anywhere). When we told the receptionist
that we were a party of eight, he read us our rights, 'We have no
large tables left for you. Your party will be seated on separate
tables. This means that you may be sitting next to strangers,
and strangers may be sitting next to you. Is that understood?'
Meekly, we accepted our fate and trotted upstairs to our tables.
We found that we had two tables of four, next to each other.
We promptly picked up the tables and chairs and formed a large table.
Duh! (please add appropriate tone of sarcasm)
This particular night was a truly poor choice, as
it was ABC's Monday Night Football game. The two featured
teams were the Indianapolis Colts and the Jacksonville Jaguars,
which meant that all their loyal citizens now exiled into our city
congregated in this public place to root for their home teams.
Meanwhile, I was really anxious to check out the Olympic track &
field results (the finals for the women's 800m, the women's 5,000m
and the men's 10,000m) but the only set showing that was about 50
feet away from the table. So all I saw was blurred images
of the last laps of those three races.
As for the food, the receptionist had also read
us the law of the land, "You are hereby given an admission
ticket, which entitles you to a seat subject to a minimum charge
of $30 per person." This means that there is no point
in getting macaroni and cheese, because you would be paying $30
anyway. The entrees are mostly meat (New York strip steak,
filet mignon, baby beef ribs, pork chops, etc), with this
note, 'supplemented with vegetables of the day designated by the
chef.' In other words, you have to eat whatever vegetables
they pass off to you. On this particular night, the entree
came with whole baked potatoes and string beans where were incredibly
over-salted and unpalatable. As for the entrees, the portions
are somewhat unpredictable. The filet mignon and pork
chop came in humanly manageable portions, but the baby spare ribs
that the female member of the party ordered were as big as an accordion.
You need to careful what beer to order. The
safe bet is to ask for a bottle of your favorite brand. The
female member of our party asked for draft Sam Adams and was presented
with a mug so huge that if she put her elbow in it, her armpit would
be drowned.
In line with the theme of television everywhere,
the bathroom is also equipped with television sets. Above
the men's urinals, there are small six-inch television screens at
the eye level of someone who is 5'8" tall. So you could
miss something important in the game if you are either too tall
or too short. Also, there are no buttons to switch channels
on those screens, so a baseball fan may be stuck with the football
score.
As I sat looking out the window, I think I have
scouted an even more unlikely location for the next corporate shindig
--- the World Wrestling Federation Theme Restaurant right across
the street! I can't wait until I can sink my fangs into them!"
REVIEWER: Toby Tanser
RESTAURANT: A certain restaurant on Doyer Street, Chinatown,
New York City
WHEN: September 14th, 2000
WHAT HE WROTE: "The problem with good food is the memory of
the matter supersedes all else. Sitting in a restaurant of
Malaysian, Singapore & Indonesian delicacies I was determined
to remember all for the Central Park Track Club food review. Unfortunately,
the name of the restaurant, the dishes and all else has been forgotten.
Luckily I do remember Doyer Street in Chinatown ... I hope the street
is not too long. Also you had to go downstairs through a shop
front to get to the eatery.
We ate for 3 hrs non-stop. Dish after dish
arrived at our table, mostly in the protein basket of delicious
food. There was one particular beef dish that was sublime ... the
name of it? Dessert was a dehydrated runner's dream - ice frozen
on-top of a syrup, black rice porridge and some multi-colored things
that tasted great. Reasonably priced, good portions and a
great staff who don't get in your face or food.
I cannot say enough good things about this restaurant
- I would recommend anyone who likes authentic tasty food, and is
passing through Chinatown hungry, to check out this place for a
feast. Rated: 8/10 (only Pick-A-Bagel has scored higher).
REVIEWER: Roland Soong
RESTAURANT: Two Sisters, Hyatt Regency Coral, Coral Gables,
Miami, Florida
WHEN: September 11th, 2000
WHAT HE WROTE: "This was a day trip for a business meeting
that did not end until 10pm. After walking out of the smoke-filled
office, I looked around for a place to have dinner. I scanned
around --- a Taco Bell right across the street, a Cuban deli (Sergio's)
to its left, a McDonald's further down; on this side of the street,
there was a Kentucky Fried Chicken. Oh, I must not forget
to mention my business associate's favorite lunch place --- he told
me, 'I get lunch every day from the Exxon service station right
next to the office building. I always get two chili dogs from
there.' All of a sudden, I was not so hungry after all.
I went back to the hotel to change
and then proceeded to the only restaurant inside the hotel.
At this hour, I really did not feel like going out again.
Since this is a Hyatt Regency, they will not permit fast food franchises
on their facilities. This restaurant, called Two Sisters,
was deserted at this hour. I ordered the blackened seabass
with béarnaise sauce. It was awesome! The fish
virtually melt in my mouth. The vegetables (carrot and broccoli)
looked great --- unfortunately, they looked too good to be true.
Visually, they really reminded me of the green grass and orange
team uniform colors in those photos on our club website when our
graphics designer goes overboard with the 'saturated' option in
Adobe PhotoShop (see sample photo of John
Scherrer and Jonathan Pillow)!"
P.S. In answer to your burning
question, I did not see the two sisters. From what I can see,
the entire restaurant staff was male.
REVIEWER: Eve Kaplan
RESTAURANT: Tally Ho (Rue Chartres (French Quarter, duh),
New Orleans, LA)
WHAT SHE WROTE: "Let's start off by saying that anyone
who is dumb enough to try running a 10-miler at 9am in New Orleans
in late August deserves a pretty amazing breakfast to follow up!
Tally Ho is a little tin diner in the French Quarter.
Surrounded by restaurants touting the usual etouffe and jambalaya,
it's easy to miss this fantastic place with its swivel-stool chrome
counter and unlimited coffee refills. Breakfast here is the
usual diner fare, with a few local specialties thrown in for good
measure (I guess they don't want to drive away too much of the tourist
business) such as eggs with alligator sausage or crawfish and beans.
I ordered the infamous pancakes. ($3.99/1; $4.99/2;
and $5.99/3... to be discussed shortly!) The menu says these are
the biggest and best pancakes in the world, and "We bet you
can't!" is written next to the price for ordering three. You
can get them with or without banana slices. I ordered 2 with bananas:
one for me, and one for my companion, who was also ordering a country
omelet and toast ($4.99, omelet with hash, sausage, cheese, veggies.)
When the pancakes arrived, I nearly died... we're
talking TOBY-TANSER STYLE CARBO LOADING ... Pancakes the size of
a New York manhole cover. (Actually, Toby could probably eat all
three and then some.) Needless to say, they were indeed the
best pancakes I have ever had. I downed one, and left the
other to my companion who polished it off in about the time it takes
him to run a mile in Central Park. (Polo Sport RLX should consider
sponsoring pancake-eating contests as cross-training for their athletes.)
After eating, we headed up the street 2 blocks for
another 'must'... the New Orleans Pharmacy Museum, at the site of
the first pharmacy in the country. This homey and weird little
museum houses such oddities as old medicines, live leeches, and
some of the most horrific ancient surgery tools you'd ever want
to see. It's the best $2.00 museum I have ever visited - but
you might want to wait until *after* you eat. Some of the
descriptions and pictures of things like the first treatments for
cholera (which resulted in your facial skin rotting off) and headache
treatments (drilling a small hole in your head to release 'pressure')
are almost as stomach-turning as trying to run in 105-degree heat
at 9am in New Orleans."
REVIEWER: Toby Tanser, the Flying
Trapeze Artist
WHERE: Pick-a-Bagel, 2nd Avenue and 77th Street, New York,
NY
 |
When I first came to New York way
back in 1996, I stayed on the Upper East Side. Believe
it or not, I had never eaten a bagel before in my life. I was
undernourished and in need of eating like a pig, that is why
I was in new York - to rectify the eating disorder. I
had been for the last half year in Kenya where bland is a description
of my diet. Very wholesome nutritious food, though I was in
need of a sugar dive, a fat splash and... a stomach pump. So
anyway ,each day I would go to Jackson Hole for a burger for
breakfast, cruise the avenues stopping at each and every eatery
and gaining more kilos than a Sumo wrestler. Once a week, I'd
jog the reservoir to fool myself that I was keeping in shape.
Well the strange thing, and eventually the focus of this story,
was that I kept on returning to one place and eating what many
would call 'bland' food again. For lunch, brunch, dinner or
supper I could be there. It was the Pick-a-bagel store on 2nd
ave & 77th. Years past, and in the true tradition of changing
scripts, I returned to New York in 1999. I could not forget
the Pick-a-bagel store, the taste had lingered with me across
many continents, and although I was now a couple of miles away
from the store ( a journey in Manhattan but a snowflake in the
Greenland) I had to return to the store to buy my bagels.
The taste was the same, exactly as I had remembered. To
this day Pick-a-bagel remains my favorite eatery in New York. |
POSTSCRIPT (10/27/2000): "I had a meeting
with the New York Post today. They asked me 'What can we do
to coax you for an interview?' Stupidly, without thinking I said
'Bagels & coffee.' Apparently the cheapest interview yet!"
REVIEWER: Caryn Cherlin
RESTAURANT: Michael Jordan's Steakhouse, Grand Central
Station, New York City, NY
WHAT SHE WROTE: "I know
what your most pressing question is and here is the answer --- If
you're looking for him, he's not here. But for some reason,
the 'set designers' and P.R. people thought a real money maker would
be selling actual cattle bones (sans marrow, but you can
order the marrow as an appetizer in the restaurant) signed by famous
people presumed to have eaten there.
Okay, as for the food, the steak is
good. And you can order a Buffalo steak - feel like a real
cowboy right there in Grand Central Station! They get you,
of course, with the sides. When you order steak, that's what you
get. Steak. Vegetables? That'll be $10 extra. But they
only have 1 or 2 actual vegetable choices on the menu --- posing
instead are creamed corn, creamed spinach, possibly some fried onions
and mashed potatoes. Also, don't expect the wait staff to
rush over with water when you sit down --- you have to request it.
However, it ain't that simple. Be prepared for the humiliation of
requesting merely 'plain tap' water when offered Pellegrino,
or some other fashionable bottled choices.
But the truth is, Michael Jordan's
is a fun place to go for a business lunch. It's nice to the
have the chance to relax, have some tasty (if over-indulgent) food
and absorb the atmosphere of Grand Central."
REVIEWER: Roland Soong
WHAT HE WROTE: Yes, another corporate
shindig brought me to Michael Jordan's Steakhouse with five
other people. I re-read Caryn's review to make sure that I
am not missing anything important.
-
The atmosphere of Grand Central?
Well, someone in the party noted that there was a constant din
of white noise in the background coming from the concourse.
You might be impressed if you have been living in Ponca, Nebraska
all your life. If you have spent six years commuting
on the LIRR like me, you would not be impressed ... in fact,
you would be EXTREMELY ANNOYED!
-
The flies! There are more
flies in this place than a Greek tragedy (ref: J-P Sartre, Les
Mouches).
-
The staff brought over water immediately
without asking. There were several hypotheses: one, we
were dressed like riffraffs and obviously unable to afford Pellegrino;
two, we were dressed like riffraffs and obviously would be consuming
massive amounts of hard liquor; three, Caryn's review had obviously
made an impact on the restaurant management --- oh, yes, we
promised you that we would become a power in this town ...
-
In this party of six, the junior
member was a vegetarian. Obviously, a steakhouse was not
the ideal place for him to be. While we looked at the
menu, we cracked jokes about the various non-meat dishes that
he could have, especially 'macaroni and cheese'. However,
this turned out not to be microwaved Kraft's Macaroni and
Cheese, but in fact it was a branded Michael's Macaroni
and Cheese that tasted like fondue. As good
as that might be, this is still an odd place to come just for
that. But of course, he had much more than that --- hashed
potatos, garlic bread, fried onion rings, creamy spinach, asparagus,
... He could not have the corn, because it came with bacon
strips.
-
The featured dish is the 'porterhouse
steak for two' at $60.95. Four of the people shared two
orders, the fifth is a vegetarian, which leaves me with an order
all for myself, right? Where was Toby Tanser when
I needed him?
-
No, we did not see Michael either.
WHO: Michele Tagliati
WHEN: July 29, 2000
WHAT HE WROTE: "Before I leave Italy, I was thinking to give
you material for some 'Traveling tips' to enrich our club members
info (we have food critics, why not traveling tips?). In fact, I'd
like to highly recommend a lovely place in Tuscany, called Montalpruno.
I just spent two wonderful weeks there with my family. As we read
on their website (www.Montalpruno.com
): "The Montalpruno Estate with 35 ha of Chianti land
is situated on a hill, above the ancient town walls of Staggia Senese,
half way between Florence and Siena, along the antique consular
road "Cassia", just a few minutes from Monteriggioni.
Here there is a farmhouse dating back to the end of the 19th century
with some confortable apartments and everything you need for a beautiful
holiday in the Tuscan countryside. The apartments sleep from
2 to 8 persons and are carefully furnished in rural Tuscan style.
Vineyards, olive groves and orchards surround the extensive outside
areas. Several art cities are within easy reach: Florence
30 Km, Siena 15 Km, San Gimignano 10 Km, Volterra 30 Km. This
beautiful natural area is perfect for nice walks, taking a swim
in the swimming pool, playing tennis or simply resting in the shade
of an age-old holm-oak."
For our runners community, I'd like to add that
there is a network of country paths and dirt roads covering dozens
of miles through vineyards, sunflowers fields and gentle hills.
While designed for mountain bike and horse back riding excursions,
these roads offer unlimited possibilities for runners who want to
keep their training shape or just reduce the effects of Italian
food on their weight ..."
In the photo gallery for the Lesbian
and Gay Pride Run, June 24, 2000, the following item appeared:
Photo
This is a photo of Kim Mannen's tuna sandwich. After
wolfing it down, she said, "I'm starving. What else
do they here? What can I buy for ten dollars?"
Seeing the astonished looks, she said, "You have no idea
how much I can eat." Now we know ...
This led to this following exchange:
-
Eve Kaplan: "Someone
should have told her that if she had just $2.00 more she could
have bought Bola's famous $12.00 ham sandwiches from EAT."
(note: the reference is to an item in the photo gallery
for the 1999 Fifth Avenue Mile --- photo:
"And if you are Bola Awofeso, you make sure that
you grab a bite first. This ham sandwich was purchased
from E.A.T. for US$12. Eat your heart out!"
That sandwich also appeared as the topic for item #3 in Trivia
Quiz # 9.)
-
Roland Soong: "This
is not a good sign when you can remember all these stories ...
get a life, Eve!"
-
Eve Kaplan: "If I remember
them, it's only because someone keeps documenting every little
detail of the Central Park Track Club goings-on! Maybe
we should both get a life!"
REVIEWER: Roland Soong
RESTAURANT: Cabana Carioca
LOCATION: 123 West 45th Street, between 6th and 7th Avenue,
New York, NY
WHEN: July 5th, 2000
REVIEW: First of all, it took a while to find this place in
Little Brazil because our guide was not completely sure (and this
was not helped by someone mumbling, "We're lost! We're
lost!" the whole time!). When we arrived at the address,
we were faced immediately with a dilemma --- there were in fact
two entrances. The entrance to the ground level had a sign
that reads: "$10.95 deluxe lunch buffet" and right next
to it is another entrance with a sign: "$5.45 budget lunch
buffet on third floor." What to do? Everybody said
"I don't care" |